Attic Mold What every Homeowner needs to know.

Posted in Inspection

Attic ventilation is a critical component to maintaining even temperatures in your attic all year long. In the summer it saves on the life of your shingles by keeping the boards cooler and decreases your cooling costs in the winter weather by diminishing the temperature difference which in turn prevents moisture build up in the form of condensation. Did you know that having a proper amount of attic ventilation is even required to enforce the warranty of most shingle manufacturers?? When it comes to mold the most import ventilation concerns occur in the winter. In the winter during the coldest months as we run our furnaces, hot air escapes into the cold unheated attic space. When the escaping hot air emerges into the cold attic it rises as heat always does. It seeks out the highest portions of the attic where it then coalesces against the cold boards of the roof. This hot- air-mass-meets-cold-surface phenomena results in a condition known as dew point, which creates moisture in the form of water droplets and ice crystals. The nails themselves also will contribute to this moisture problem as iron is a good conductor of temperature and will readily convey the biting chill of cold winter air directly inside the attic. The evidence of this, can be seen in the form of drips and of drip spots underneath the nails themselves.

Bathroom fans vented directly into the attic or Soffit areas rather than straight through the roof are also to blame for exacerbated moisture problems which lead to mold, wood- rot and health problems. The more adults showering in the house and the longer the showers the more moisture will enter an attic. In fact in some families the bathroom fans alone are the sole culprit responsible for major mold infestations! Use your fans for 20min or longer after use!

If you want to eliminate attic mold permanently you NEED to get EQUAL amounts of Intake Air and Exhaust or Out-take Air into your Attic!

Building scientists have proven that using a balanced ventilation system that utilizes equal amounts incoming and out going air. Incoming air comes in from under the eves through vents cut in the underside of the roof overhangs which are called soffets. Proper soffet ventilation is essential to large amounts of incoming air needed for intake. Many attics were originally vented properly but have become packed with insulation along the way by an over-zealous insulation contractor or homeowner, in an attempt to actually stop air from coming in, sadly a common mistake. This mistake was very common in the 80's and 90's. There are two basic types of Soffit vents: either a contiguous vent or a individual vents which come in round and square varieties. I generally prefer to use 6 inch by 12 inch square vents because of the ease of installation and the low material cost. They work surprisingly well and offer a lot of surface area. They can be purchased easily in brown white and silver to match virtually any siding.

Out-take air, exhaust air ventilation can take 4 basic forms: Gable end vents, ridge vents, box/hat vents or power vents. Of the four the ridge vent is to be preferred, due to its location at the highest point of the attic, namely the ridge. Because heat always rises it is passively efficient at exhausting large amounts of heated air without the use of electricity. Be sure to select a ridge vent without a complicated filter which can become clogged; I prefer the simple metal designs for their simplistic efficient design and operation. Box vents while older and more dated can be efficient if there is a sufficient number of them located across the surface. If your attic already has square, can, or box type vents but not enough of them, it can be a less expensive solution to an inadequate exhaust air problem. The reason is simple they are cheap and easy to install and like the square intake vents can be easily purchased in several colors to match any shingle. If you have a hip roof there may be insufficient ridge length to allow for sufficient out-take; box vents can be an ideal solution for this problem. Powered vents work well, but are dependent upon electricity for operation. This both costs money and is subject to wear and tear of moving parts. Additionally in the event of power outages can leave the attic over heated, for these reasons the author does not recommend them.

Beware of mixing two different kinds of ventilation!!!

By far one of the most common, and the most troubling ventilation mistakes is the mixed use of two completely different ventilation systems. For example mixing a ridge vent with a box vent or a previously installed power vent or gable end vents. What goes wrong is this: air always follows the path of least resistance and looks for the nearest opening , often the ridge will draft air from the box vents and short circuit the entire exhaust air systems, eliminating any chance of correcting the water/moisture issues. It can also bring unwanted weather snow debris etc into the attic because box vents and gable end vents were not meant to be intake vents, which can cause tremendous damage! So remember don't mix two ventilation systems pick one and stick with it ensuring there is enough of whatever vent system you choose. Most builder today do not follow this GOLDEN rule!

Is correcting my ventilation a cure for a mold problem in my attic?

NO!! it is not a cure for mold but just for ventilation problems which create moisture issues. No matter who installs your ventilation system in the winter if you are running supplemental heat in your home your attic will be subject to some moisture from time to time during the coldest days. For this reason and several others it is a must to actually treat the mold with a system designed to remove it completely without leaving behind mold or poisonous heavy metals paints and chemicals that can make your family sick. Even dead mold can still affect your health and make your family sick. It is also a good idea to hire a mold contractor with a ventilation expert on staff, because hiring a roofing contractor and a mold contractor is always more expensive!

Did you know most contractors use toxic chemicals to kill mold which may contains carcinogens which are cancer causing agents?

 Contact us for a list of quality mold remediators This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or 425.608.9553

 

Rodents in Attic and Crawlspace

Posted in Inspection

Signs of Vermin/Rodents -trails through/over the insulation, droppings, urine spots and nesting materials - are often signs of a rodent issue.  Vermin can gain access by tunneling beneath the foundation wall, through a poorly fitted hatch, damaged vent screens or by other means. We recommend yearly serice by a reputable exterminator to identify and seal all points of entry and eliminate any vermin present.

The Center for Disease Control (CDC) defines this as less than 20 feces per square foot. Rodent infestation may be a safety hazard due to the risk of contracting Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome (HPS). HPS is a rare (only 20-50 cases per year in the United states) but deadly (40% mortality rate) disease transmitted by infected rodents through urine, droppings, or saliva. Humans can contract the disease when they breathe in aerosolized virus. For example, from sweeping up rodent droppings. Recommend following guidelines in the CDC's Clean Up, Trap Up, Seal Up article for eradicating rodents, cleaning up their waste and nesting materials, and preventing future infestations. While Hanta virus is believed to survive less than one week in droppings and urine, specific precautions should be taken during clean up. bellevue rats

A qualified licensed abatement contractor or industrial hygenist could be contacted for clean up. If the infestation was minimal, clean up of rodent waste and nesting materials in non-living spaces (crawl spaces and attics) may not be necessary, or may be performed for aesthetic reasons only (odor and appearance).

What is a Roof Cricket?

Posted in Inspection

What is a Cricket

What’s a roof cricket?

A roof cricket is a ridge structure designed to divert water on a roof. Generally found on the high side of a chimney or the transition from one roof area to another, the cricket is normally the same pitch as the rest of the roof, but not always. Crickets can be covered with metal flashing or with the same material as the rest of the roof. Crickets are also often referred to as “saddles” in this context. When the chimney is at the bottom of a roof slope or has roof sloping into it I always install a cricket. Below are some pictures of a cricket installation.

Prevent Roof Leaks ~ How To Build A Roof Cricket

Chimneys are notorious for leaking, and the culprit is almost always the sheet metal flashing. It doesn’t take an expert to spot problems—simply look for water-stained ceilings or other telltale signs of leaking in the vicinity of your chimney. Because chimneys are such a potential trouble spot, inspect them once every year or two for loose or missing flashing and cracks in the masonry. Small cracks can be sealed with caulk designed to repair masonry. This chimney pictured below is on a Main Street Concord house. A leak caused rot roof sheathing rot, ant infestation and plaster damage in a bedroom below We determined the cause of the leak to be several things; lack of an adequate waterproof under layment [rubber ice and water shield], fatiguing lead chimney flashing and the lack of a roof cricket.

Proper flashing around a chimney includes three layers. The first is a rubberized membrane that runs on the roof and up the sidewall of the chimney. The second is called step flashing: Sections of L-shaped sheet metal are woven into the shingle courses and lapped up the side of the chimney. Third comes the counter flashing: A second layer of metal is embedded in the chimney mortar joints and folded down to cover the top of the step flashing. On this roof a five foot section or roofing was stripped back, the rotted wood and wet insulation replaced and ice and water shield installed and wrapped up the chimney. New shingles and step flashing were installed.

New lead chimney flashing will be installed next. This cricket’s components are four pieces made from 2×4 and 3/4″ plywood. The horizontal ridge board is installed level and matches the roof angle on one end and sits on a vertical support at the chimney. Both pieces are screwed tot he roof. 3/4″ plywood that extends to the edge of the chimney is installed secured to the horizontal 2×4 ridge and along the roofs edge with screws. Cricket frame installed.

Side view showing how water used to run down this roof and hit the chimney, pooling, and eventually making its way into the house. Ice and water shield, a Grace product, is installed over the cricket and up the chimney face. Step flashing and roofing is applied next. When we come back we will grinding out the old lead counter “cap” flashing and install all new lead flashing.

cricket

cricket completion

Reading Your Online Report

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Twitter

Posted in Inspection

The Widgetkit Twitter module is the neatest way to display tweets directly on your website. All displayed tweets get cached so they show up super fast, even if Twitter is not available.

Features

  • Filter tweets by hashtags, words, from users, to users, referencing users
  • Block tweets using a blacklist
  • Tweets are cached for high performance
  • Tweets show up even if Twitter is not available
  • 3 different styles to show your tweets
  • Build with HTML5 using article and time elements
  • Works with Joomla 1.5, 1.6 and WordPress

How To Use

Create a Twitter module in Joomla or a Twitter widget in WordPress and publish it in a module position. A lot of options are available to choose which tweets you want to show.

For example you can show only tweets from a specific user or tweets that contain a certain hash-tag or a specific word. All options can be combined. To filter by more than one word or user use a space between them. For example: yootheme joomla.